Last year, I had cancelled the
Leh plan and rather chose Udaipur as an outing destination in Monsoon. Since
then, Leh-Ladakh was ticking in my mind. Meanwhile, I met a college friend
while running the Mumbai Marathon in January. As she is also a long-distance
runner, she started with the topic of planned marathon for the year 2019, and
during a conversation, she mentioned abut Ladakh marathon in September.
I got
intrigued as well as excited with the idea of the World’s highest marathon at
11000 ft., and at that very moment I knew, I am going to Leh!
The next hurdle was the Ladakh marathon’s qualification
criteria of completing any half marathon in a maximum of 3 hours. Hence,
preparation for Leh started in April itself by achieving Nashik HM in 2 hrs. 45
mins.
Keeping in mind the Ladakh marathon, as a practice, I
decided to participate in all marathon in, and nearby Mumbai, till August end.
Moreover, additional emphasis on training for long-distance running, that too,
with low oxygen levels was the ultimate aim.
I shared this plan with many colleagues and friends, but in
the end, only 3 idiots remained, including me. What was more exciting to know
was the fact that they were not only accompanying me, but also running the half
marathon. This proves to be further motivation. Also, all the formalities
regarding the tour, such as flight, and stay bookings are done. Now, the only
task at hand was to do thorough research, before landing in nature’s heaven.
Discussing with natives of Leh, regular travelers, and
marathon organizers, I found that the biggest problem is of acclimatization.
Thus, I arrived 48 hours prior to race day and got luckily settled (I strongly
recommend, 4 days before any physical activity/sport).
I took early morning, direct flight to Leh on Friday,
September 6, and reached Kushok Bakula Rimpochee airport at 7 AM. Aerial,
Himalayan view of its serene mountain peaks is paradise, and is always a bliss
to watch!!!
There were many marathoners on my flights, after meeting a
few of them we shared one taxi and reached the hostel. I stayed at Hearth
hostel which is near polo ground (you can find many naropa fellowship fellows
in that hostel). It was a nice and cozy place with all the basic amenities and nostalgic
feeling of college days. There is a central common room where all residents can
mingle with each other and distress themselves. It includes various books along
with musical instruments like guitar, tabla, and flute for playing.
First day was reserved for getting acclimatized with the
intake of plenty of water for proper hydration, light healthy food along with
complete rest.
Second day, we hired a car and went to the confluence point
of Zanskar and Indus river on Leh NH1. On our way back to the hostel, we were
fortunate enough to have lunch in Gurudwara Pathar sahib organized by the
Indian army.
Finally, D-Day arrived (September 8, Sunday). We wake up at
4.30 in the morning when the temperature was dry, and chilling around 5
degrees. We got properly dressed in all running gears, 2 more guests from the
hostel joined us for a marathon.
While walking towards the holding area, luckily, we got a
lift by one local Ladakhi lady in her car (It was a kind, and lovely gesture by
her!). What a scene at the starting point for run, everyone in their best of
spirits, enthusiasm at its peak, even nature was at its best.
Once warm-up is done, and when the chequered flag is down,
we started with the run of our life.
The racetrack was unique with the first 15 km experiencing a
downward slope and ending with an ascending slope of 6 km. Eventhough, there
was less oxygen at that high altitude, I maintained a pace of 9 mins/km.
Marathon was organized expertly, and professionally,
volunteers were helpful, and there were many hydration and medical points.
Ladakh has such a phenomenon that your skin will burn when in sunlight, whereas
you will instantly feel cold under any shade, or shelter.
While running at the starting phase, I easily manage the
down-slope, as I was engrossed with the thoughts, Whether Journey is more
important or the destination, the question I came across in a book, “Zen and
the art of motorcycle maintenance”. But then later realized that I still have
to conquer the most tiresome 6 km upward slope!!!
The last slope was the steepest, and my hard training, both
physically and mentally, over the past few months, kept me going. However, out
of breath was the main reason that few people gave up at this point and used
medical facilities.
One marathon photographer was at the end line to click all
finisher's photo. An unknown positive force boosts you up, once you first
glance at the finish line. I was completely dehydrated (dry mouth), and
exhausted with heavy legs and swollen fingers (Remember that from the first km
you breathe in from mouth not from nose).
As soon as I crossed the finish line, and completed the
marathon, one of the crew members awarded me the medal. First time in my life,
I got the overwhelming feeling that cannot be expressed in words but can only
be felt with emotions. For a few seconds, I got speechless, my eyes filled with
tears of joy, and accomplishment, while my heart was at tremendous peace and
sense of fulfillment.
After a few minutes, my other 2 friends also crossed the
final line and felt a similar emotion as mine. We clicked and captured a few
pictures with other participants also and created a memory that will always be
close to our hearts. We had breakfast at the marathon site which was rich in
protein, and carbohydrates, and returned to the hostel.
After relaxing in the afternoon, we went to the Leh market
in the evening and did some shopping. We also hired a cab for the next 3 days
to explore popular tourist spots around the area. Feeling excited we reached
hostel and packed our bags for the remaining adventurous trip.
The Next part of the travelogue is about 4 days travel.
Travel itinerary was –
Day 1: Leh -Khardungla- Diskit- Hundar
Day 2: Hundar- Turtuk- Hundar
Day 3: Hundar- Shyok- Pangong
Day 4: Pangong- Shey- Leh
Day 1:
While taking permit photocopies from the market, we were
headed towards Khardung La, early on Monday, 9th September. Khardung
La mountain pass is considered as one of the highest motorable road around the
world and it’s a gateway for Nubra Valley also. The huge brown mountains with
snowy peaks were classy, beside both the side of the road. Mother Nature makes
us realize, how small our existence in front of those enormous ranges is! (We
are no-one in the Cosmos)
We reached Khardung La and it was windy, and chilling
outside. At approximate 18000 ft., you are illusioned for anti-gravity and one
could feel the heaviness in their head. While coming down from Khardung La, we
had a stop at north pillu. Roads were becoming more picturesque, and scenic as
we were moving further north. We could find many bikers groups on the way.
The main and unique attraction of Diskit monastery s a gigantic statue of Lord
Buddha on the top and the charming view from it. This Monastery with the help
of an NGO runs a school for the Tibetan children of the local region.
We stayed at karma inn (descent hotel with delicious
in-house cultivated food) at Hundar. Later in the evening, we spent our time at
sand dunes with the two-humped camels in Nubra valley. On the way back, we
experienced ladakhi folk dance by the local group.
Day 2:
Reserved for the exotic cultural experience of Turtuk, which
is the last Indian administered village on LOC. Journey to Turtuk was
magnificent with clear waterfalls and many suspension bridges. There is a
museum of the Balti dynasty. Although, it was an old and less maintained place,
But Baltic pre-independence history was new to me.
While returning, we could spot many bikers enjoying the
ride, and were back at the hotel in Hundar in the afternoon.
Day 3:
We begin our day with Buddhist prayer playing in the car. I
am in love with "Avalokitesvara Mantra" and 'Om Mani Padme Hum' prayers.
Route to Pangong lake via shyok was beautiful and fascinating one.
I tried yak cheese and butter tea on the way.
Pangong Lake is humongous as well as extremely calm, and
peaceful.
It is a mysterious lake with a breath-taking view. It
changes water shades throughout the day as per Sun’s directions. It looks grey
in the dawn, blue in the morning, turquoise in the afternoon and light blue in
the evening.
I stayed in a tent near a lake, it was freezing at night
when the temperature dropped to -3 degrees. In my next-door tent, were
interesting Indonesian couple, who were exploring Ladakh on bike. We become
friends instantaneously.
Day 4:
On our return journey, we visited and spent one hour at the
serene ‘Thiksey Monastery’, and reached Leh around 4 pm.
In our leisure time in the evening we did some more
shopping, particularly purchased prayer flags, singing bowl (Specialty of
Ladakh), and Fridge magnets as some souvenirs. This was our last night in
Ladakh
On Friday, September 13, I took an early flight and fly back
to Mumbai with heaps of unique experiences and innumerable fond memories.
